Village of India Restaurant, Columbia, SC

“Don’t judge a book by its cover.” How many times have we heard that? Good advice, especially when you look at mine. Nonetheless, we all do just that. If we didn’t, most book designers would be out of business.

We inevitably make assessments based on initial, often superficial, appearances. That’s true for books, for people, and even restaurants. Traveling around South Carolina I often run into restaurants that look modest from the outside, but once inside serve excellent food. Often at reasonable prices. I’ve written about a few of them in these pages. The Pumpkintown General Store and Café up near Table Rock State Park was a good example.  Best cheeseburger, fries and coleslaw I’ve ever eaten. At any price!

Here’s one more to add to the list: “Village of India.” As noted on the front of the menu, they’re open seven days a week. Master Chef Daljit Singh and Neelam Rani are there every day, taking a rest only on Mondays at lunchtime. Don’t know how they do it, but the result is the best Sub-Continent food I’ve had in years.

Here’s how you find Village of India. Drive north on Two Notch Road from Columbia or from the I-20 or I-77 intersections. After several traffic lights you’ll see a fire station on the left, followed by the State Credit Union. Slow down and turn left at the next traffic light into the Northeast Shopping Center. You can’t miss the sign. Plenty of parking too!

Inside, this restaurant is beautifully appointed. Crisp tablecloths and napkins at every place setting. Tables toward the center and booths along both sides of the walls. This is a fancy place. Glad I don’t have to wash and iron all of those tablecloths and napkins!

The best is yet to come. If you arrive at lunchtime, before 2:30, you’ll see this buffet table with ten or so main dish selections. Plus salad and sweet offerings. Everything is fresh, nothing “steam tabled,” if that’s a term. Both vegetarian and non-vegetarian dishes.
Get a plate and try a small – very small – helping of each. Be sure not to overload that first plate because you’ll be back. At least once. You’ll be amazed to discover – at least for now – that all of this costs only $7.95! What a bargain. Once you learn which dishes best suit your palate you’ll want to come for dinner when prices go up a bit. $7.95. I mean!
Master Chef and Owner, Daljit Singh, is a legend here in the Indian community. He trained for over twenty years under the strict discipline of his elder brother before branching out on his own. I’ve yet to meet his brother, but he has to be some teacher.
Mr. Singh is a perfectionist. Try, for example, his chicken tikka masala. This is a popular dish served by every Indian restaurant I’ve ever visited. Here, though, it’s different. Each cube of chicken in the onion-tomato-yogurt sauce has been roasted and seasoned perfectly. impossible with mass production. It must take forever to prepare.
Village of India also offers a catering service. They'll prepare specialized menus for any size group, Chef Singh says. From small family groups to hundreds of people.
I could go on and on about Village of India. Come out and give it a try next time you’re in Columbia. You’ll be pleasantly surprised.

A Glimpse of the Cayce Historical Museum

Most of South Carolina’s 47 counties support some sort of museum. Some more generously than others. I’ve visited several, most recently Barnwell County’s.

But only a few towns or cities sponsor their own museums. Cayce, South Carolina is one of those exceptions. With good reason, as I learned during a visit last Friday. They have an important story to tell.
Next chance you get, drive from Columbia across the Congaree River via the Blossom Street Bridge onto Knox Abbott Drive. Turn left onto 12th Street at the Krispy Kreme intersection. You’ll find the Cayce municipal office complex and Museum about a half-mile down on the right. It’s a short drive, in other words. AND, you have a good excuse to stop at Krispy Kreme on the way back for a donut or three.

I’ve been through this intersection dozens – hundreds! – of times since arriving in Columbia in 1986. It’s the shortest route to the Columbia Airport from the University, for one thing. And, of course, there’s the Krispy Kreme factor…. But I’ve never bothered to visit the Museum. Heard about it, but didn’t make the turn onto 12th Street. What a mistake!

A mistake I decided to rectify last Friday while searching for a more respectable way to procrastinate from drafting the third chapter of this second Ray Raether and Samantha RV travel mystery. Truth be told, my expectations were limited.

Well! What a surprise. Walking up the neat brick-lined path from behind the building you see at the top of the page I found this DAR monument.


Click on the image above to read the inscription. In case you have difficulty, here’s the text:

“In 1775 the building upon the ground adjacent hereto was used as a store. Upon the fall of Charles Town in 1780 the British seized the store, fortified it, and established here “The Post at the Congarees.” Attacked Feb. 19, 1781 by Gen. Sumter, who on the 21st destroyed the magazine and supplies in sight of Rawdon’s Army across the river, he having come from Camden to relieve the Post. Captured by Lee, May 15, 1781. Reoccupied by Rawdon, July 1, 1781, Reoccupied by Greene, July 4, 1781.”

Now, that’s a lot of fighting! A lot of military effort. “Fort Granby, or “The Post at the Congarees,” must have been important to both the Patriots and to the Royalists. I learned last Friday that it most certainly was.

Granby, according to the Museum’s “History of Cayce” webpage, was laid out in 1735. It soon “… became the most important inland commercial town east of the Mississippi River.” That’s quite a claim. But by the end of my visit I was convinced.

The trading post at Granby built in 1765 is what you will see when you visit the Museum. Well, an accurate replication, anyway. Local builder, John Ellisor created a detailed model of the original, which survived for over 200 years, and constructed the present building himself from measurements taken from that model.

This means we can be quite sure the 1765 structure that became the Royalists’ “Post at the Congarees,” and then the Patriots’ “Fort Granby,” looked much like this building. I forgot to ask the square footage, but even today this is an impressive structure. It would have been far more impressive in the mid-eighteenth century.

Inside, the Museum’s displays are arranged in four rooms: two downstairs and two upstairs. After contributing a modest admission fee, you might want to head straight upstairs to the American Indian collection. To begin at the beginning. Or, what we know of the beginning, anyway.

This display, covering the walls and two rows of glass cases in the center of the room, has to be one of the finest and most comprehensive in the country.

I’m especially interested in early American Indian history in the Southeast [Click here to see 17 posts from a tour I made of three American Indian mound complexes in the Southeast in 2010] Well, I should have visited this Museum before making that tour. Thousands of artifacts, skillfully displayed and explained.

After ten minutes or so I realized I must come back and spend a few days in this room alone. With camera and notepad. It really is remarkable.

Now, take a look at this. The Granby Toy Store! The Town of Granby must have been a going concern if it was able to support a store devoted exclusively to children’s toys in the mid-18th century.

One might expect a store or two that sold foodstuffs. Probably a blacksmith shop. A clothing or general store. Maybe a saloon or two. Or three. But a store specializing in toys for children! That suggests a level of mid-eighteenth century prosperity I, at least, didn’t expect here in the Midlands of South Carolina. Granby had to be an important town.

Also, look carefully at the items displayed here. What did children play with in this era? Mostly, items that to them represented the adult world in which they lived. This exhibit too will require much more time to absorb its lessons.


Each of the displays at this Museum is accompanied by an explanatory note. It would be possible to go through the whole collection on one’s own, without a guide.

But if he is available, I urge you to meet Museum Director, Leo Redmond. Mr. Redmond knows every piece on display and can describe its significance. Talking with Mr. Redmond about the Cayce area is like taking a boat ride on Chesapeake Bay with James Michener. He’s interested in and knowledgeable about it all. From the earliest American Indians to present.

In a weak moment during our conversation last Friday Mr. Redmond agreed to do an audio interview for CarolinaConsidered, once I can learn enough about this important area of our State to ask useful questions. So stay tuned. This will be a treat.


So, now I have an excellent reason to procrastinate from the second novel project. The Cayce Historical Museum has much more to offer than I was able to absorb during a single visit. Fortunately, it’s usually open. Closed Mondays, but open 9 to 4, Tuesdays through Fridays, and even on the weekends, 2 to 5. That’s unusual too.

See the photo above? With the red arrow pointing to a table. Next time I’ll tell you where that table came from. Bet you’ll be surprised.

Paris Mountain’s Charcoal Kiln, Cemetery, and Trails

Great trip to Paris Mountain State Park last week. Five days at one of the State Park System’s premier Parks.

Did I mention that Paris Mountain is very tent-camper friendly? Many of the campsites include well maintained tent pads like the one you see in the photo above. In fact, this trip I saw more tent campers than RV campers. Unusual. Almost makes me wish I had my little dome-shaped Tetragon tent with me again. Almost, but not quite. The Aliner sure was a comfort when near-torrential rains fell this trip.

I’d hope to learn more about the charcoal kiln and cemetery site in the middle of the campground but didn’t get a chance. The excellent, but dated, article from USC’s Institute of Archaeology describing their 1970 dig, published in 1974, will have to do. Click here to access the full article. It’s not long and worth a read.

Charcoal making was an important – essential! – activity in early America. Everything from gunpowder to iron production required charcoal. No wonder it became one of our earliest manufactures.  Click here for all you ever wanted to know about production of charcoal and how it’s changed over time. A long, but interesting piece from the U.S. Forest Service.

It would be nice to have one of the Park’s information boards nearby, since the site itself doesn’t give much away. Just disturbed earth with a surrounding split rail fence.

Ask visitors to Paris Mountain what they like best about the Park and nine out of ten will say “the hiking trails.” This 1200-some acre Park maintains several. Click the photo of the map above to go to the site. I count nine altogether. Some comfortable, or easy, like the Turtle Trail I wrote about a few years ago. [Click here to see the photos, and a video]. Others are a real challenge. All are well maintained by Park staff and a host of volunteers. Impressive!

Now, look at this. It’s a bird house! With a nest in back, by the way. Imagine how many hours went into creation of this delightful display. Just had to show you a photo.

Made in the image of the famous Paris Mountain State Park Office building. Which includes shower areas for swimmers, by the way. A great example of the CCC’s art.

Speaking of which, be sure to go inside to see the CCC exhibit pictured above. Scads of information about this Depression-era undertaking. Make sure you watch the video.

Swimming seems to be making a comeback at some of the Parks I’ve visited recently. Here’s Paris Mountain’s swimming area. The Park also maintains a fleet of kayaks, canoes, and paddle boats for those who want to stay dry as they explore “Lake Placid.”

Well, lots more to describe. But we’re out of space here. Be sure to stop by, even if it’s only for a few hours. Plenty for the day visitor to do as well as the RV camper. Thanks again to Park Manager Jason and his staff for a delightful week.

Paris Mountain State Park

There’s the Aliner and its new tow vehicle. On campsite number 20 here at Paris Mountain State Park. This site has a moderate slope downhill. But in compensation, it’s a pull-through. And, like the rest of the sites at this campground, paved. We’ve had a lot of rain last night and this morning. Even the best dirt-gravel sites would have to be muddy by now. Not here, fortunately.

Here is a view of some more of these paved sites just up the road. According to the Camp Host, nearly all of them were occupied through Sunday. This is a popular Park. Both for camping and for day use.

I know; I know. Real campers don’t need paved sites. But it sure makes a difference when it’s raining so hard frogs seek shelter in the trees! Fortunately, yesterday the rain held off until I got set up outside.

I’ve done several articles on this Park, so no need for general description today. But here’s an interesting new feature. Technology facilitating enjoyment of nature. Snap a photo of any of these images and you have a guided tour of some aspect of the Park right on your smartphone. Haven’t tried it yet but hope to before leaving.

Here’s an example of older technology. An early charcoal kiln, right here in the campground. I hope to learn more about this feature, and about the small cemetery discovered nearby, before leaving. Stay tuned. I’ll keep you posted.

The Barnwell County Museum

Next time you’re at Barnwell State Park be sure to save time to visit the City of Barnwell, and especially the Barnwell County Museum.

You’ll have to plan your visit around the Museum’s hours, since it’s now open only 3:00 PM to 5:30 PM, Tuesday through Thursday, and on Sundays. Turn right at the Park entrance and drive south. It’s just under ten miles from the Park gate, if memory serves. Also be sure to enter the Hagood Avenue address in your GPS rather than “Barnwell County Museum” to avoid being directed to it’s previous location.

Speaking of driving, leave a little early and take time to look around Barnwell itself. Barnwell has been an important South Carolina town for centuries – millennia! -- and it shows. Lots to see and learn. More on that after my next visit. But make sure to end up in the Museum parking lot by 3 o’clock. You’ll have a lot to see, and only 2.5 hours to see it.

 

Just inside the front door is the reception room. Well, more than a reception room. As you see in the photo above, this room too is full of interesting exhibits. Oh, and take a look at the hardwood floor. Beautiful materials and workmanship. The Museum’s lucky to have this house for their collections.

To your left, near the spinning wheel, have a look at the contraception pictured above. What in the world? It’s a mechanical fly chaser. I’ve never seen one quite like it. Wind up its spring and the wands turn, frightening even persistent flies away from the dining table. Museum Manager Marie Peeples kindly demonstrated it for me. I should have taken video. Maybe this fly chaser is a Barnwell original!

As you might expect in a place like Barnwell County, this museum has a huge and diverse collection. What a challenge for the curators! Limited display space; lots and lots of interesting things donated or loaned to the museum over the years.

The collection’s primary theme is geographic. Barnwell County. But Barnwell County has a long and diverse history. From Archaic American Indian to today’s fast-food/web.com culture. Further, many Barnwell County residents have a keen knowledge and appreciation of that history. They probably expect more from their County Museum than do residents of less historically conscious counties. The Museum’s collection reflects all of this. What a challenge!

Look at these, for example. Two incredible examples of both Archaic and Woodland Period American Indian vessels. They’re behind glass, of course, but the interested visitor can get as close as she or he wishes. A rare opportunity.

And look at this interesting collection of American Indian points. Click on the photo above to get a larger view. This isn’t a haphazard bunch of arrowheads spilled out on a felt-lined tray. Each one is unique, representing an important aspect of the topic. The enclosed key provides hints to their provenance.

There’s so much to see here. Items that will take your breath away. I can’t begin to do it justice in this post. You’ll just have to visit. Maybe visit two or three times. I certainly will.

When you visit, be sure to say hello to Museum Manager Marie Peeples. She was a wonderful guide when I visited week before last. Knowledgeable and patient, even after answering hundreds of questions from this curious old recovering academic.

What a great internship opportunity this Museum would be for undergraduates interested in South Carolina history. Plenty to do, and even more to learn. Both the Beaufort and the Salkehatchie campuses are near enough to take advantage of such a program.

Thanks again Ms. Peeples for an enjoyable and informative afternoon. I hope to return for a closer look at your remarkable collection.