The RV Campground at Hickory Knob State Resort Park, SC

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The RV campground usually is the first thing I mention during CarolinaConsidered State Parks visits. Hickory Knob, though, turned out to be special. There’s so much to see and do here that the order of presentation got jumbled.

The atmosphere or environment of the campground at Hickory Knob is much like that of the Beaver Run Trail. Carefully maintained nature. This is no antiseptic, clean-swept sort of place, so typical of commercial campgrounds. As you can see in the photo above, RV campers here will have a sense of being out in the woods.

Each campsite has water and electricity. Best of all, many of them are wide and spacious. Plenty of room even for one of those huge Class A motorhomes. Leaves blanket each of the sites. No intensive electric blower program here. But. looking around, I didn’t see a single piece of trash. Camp Host Bruce Duffield sees to that, as well as maintaining all of the other campground equipment. Be sure to stop to say Hello to Bruce when you visit.

There were only a few other campers when I visited Hickory Knob. So only one bath house was open. It had been carefully winterized, and was well heated. The facilities all were spotless. A pleasure to take a shower here, even early on a chilly morning.

That portion of the campground with the most lake view campsites, described on the map as the “Main Loop,” was closed for the winter when I arrived. But I walked in to have a look around anyway. A few of those Main Loop campsites look as if they would be a challenge for anyone with a large motorhome.

But most are like the site you see in the photo above. Many of the sites in this loop include easy access to the lake shore for fishing and boating, and have great views of the lake. I may try one of them on my next visit.

So, there you have it. The RV campground at Hickory Knob State Resort Park. A great experience for those of us who like to get out in the woods. Not to be confused with the more sterile environments found at many commercial campgrounds. No paved sites; no big rubber jumping cushions; no cotton candy stands. Just a great opportunity to enjoy the forest environment of this part of South Carolina.

Now, if this genuinely natural environment isn’t quite your cup of tea, or if your party includes one or more Campophobes, then give the Hickory Knob Resort Lodge a try. There you’ll find all of the amenities, and at a surprisingly low price. Hickory Knob really has something for everyone. I’m headed back as soon as I can.

Hiking the Beaver Run Trail at Hickory Knob State Park

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“Hiking”? Well, in the broadest sense of the term, I guess. Maybe ElderHiking. Just Ambling would be a more accurate description. But what’s the sense of rushing along at top sustainable speed when there’s so much to see along the way? I mean! Wish I’d learned that earlier in life ….

Here’s a convenient map from SCTrails.net that gives an idea of what to expect on this interesting 2.5-mile trail. SCTrails.net, by the way, is an excellent source of information about hiking and biking trails in South Carolina. Click one of those links above and have a look around. Here’s what they have to say about the Beaver Run Trail. But take time to click through their whole site. It should be a bookmark-able Web destination for anyone who follows the CarolinaConsidered Blog.

My opportunity to hike, or amble, Beaver Run Trail came last November 30th. A day that was sunny, with only a light breeze, and cool enough for a light jacket. How could you ask for better conditions!

The map above suggests a fairly straight path for this trail. But that’s not what I found. It’s been laid out through the woods with attention to trees, rocks, damp spots, and changes in elevation. It even includes the occasional switch-back to ease changes in altitude, as the SCTrail.net description mentions. This irregularity makes it far more interesting and enjoyable to hike.

Here and there you’ll catch glimpses of the Lake Thurmond shoreline. With traces of less formal paths down to the bank in places. See how low the Lake was! About 10 feet down at the time, if memory serves.

At one spot, about half-way along, I found clear evidence of an old roadbed that once led down to the shore of the lake.

Abandoned now, it was strewn with its share of the fallen timber found throughout the surrounding woods. This is the view on the other side of the trail. Heading straight for the main road. Built up in places. It must have been used fairly recently.

Here and there along the trail I found red tapes adorning trees, like the one you see in the photo above. Each red tape had the name of the tree hand-printed in black ink. Nice to have for tree identification! But these have to be temporary. I wonder what the Park Service plans to do with them. More permanent signs? 

About two-thirds of the way to the skeet and archery ranges the trail passes the 1760 Guillebeau House. Now, this is worth seeing.

This house has been modernized inside and is for rent! But if it’s empty when you pass, go up and have a close look at its construction. Like most houses of that vintage, it was built in sections, over time. Likely in responses to changes in family size and/or economic fortunes of its owners. Interesting workmanship.

Long-time readers may recall the February 2011 CarolinaConsidered visit to the mid-18th century log house at Sesquicentennial State Park. Click here if you missed it.

Back on the trail, I noticed the pile of stones you see in the photo above. Certainly not natural. I suspect they’re the remains of a house foundation, doorstep, or possibly a chimney. Wish I knew more about the earlier inhabitants of this land. And what the area looked like before creation of the lake and the successive waves of timbering.

Well, there’s plenty more to tell about along this trail. But time is running out again. I turned around not long before the end of the trail when it got a little wet and headed back to the Visitors Center.

What a wonderful trail to walk. Easy enough for all but those of us limited to wheeled locomotion. Yet “natural” enough to give visitors a definite sense of being in the woods. That combination requires careful planning in layout, and then constant care. Go have a look for yourself!

But stay tuned here for the third and final post in this series on Hickory Knob State Park. We’ll visit the RV campground.

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Hickory Knob State Resort Park

Table of Contents for This Series

• Hickory Knob State Resort Park
• Hiking the Beaver Run Trail
• Hickory Knob’s RV Campground

Everyone – well, at least everyone in the Carolinas and Georgia – has heard of Hickory Knob State Park. Including me. But I never paid a visit until late November last year. What everyone says is true. It’s a real treat, and I’ll be back as soon as I can fit it into the travel schedule.

Hickory Knob is right on the shore of Lake Thurmond. Just under 100 miles and about two hours west of Columbia. South Carolina’s “West Coast.” Sort of … A good distance to travel, even when not pulling a travel trailer. But the miles go by quickly on Highway 378.

I’ve mentioned Highway 378 before on this program. It’s a great drive. Parenthetically, I suggest you don’t stop in McCormick when you pass through. There’s so much to see there you’re bound to be late for your Hickory Knob arrival! Save McCormick for another trip! Just a suggestion …

The drive through the Park to the Visitors Center offers another treat. It’s worth making even if you don’t have Park reservations. Be sure to observe the speed limit, even down hill. On the way back from the Park restaurant one night three deer appeared suddenly at the side of the road. They looked to be deciding whether to cross the road in front of my car or behind it. I slowed to give them the option. And deer aren’t the only critters you’ll encounter here. Lots of wild turkeys, and all sorts of other interesting animals.

Much of this Park road skirts the 18-hole golf course. This is one of only two golf courses maintained by the State Park system. The other is at Cheraw State Park on the other side of the State. I’m not a golfer and didn’t take time this trip to visit the Hickory Knob Course or its Club House. But they have their own website. Click here to access it, if golf is your game. It includes a hole-by-hole video that should give you a good sense of the course.

Don’t be misled by the bargain rate prices. 18 holes, according to the website, is only $15 during the week, and $20 on weekends. A cart will cost you $15. But even a non-golfer can tell that this is no hardscrabble, minimally maintained public course. So have a look.

Not far from the Visitors Center, you’ll pass the Guillebeau House. A renovated 18th century log structure erected in 1764 by Huguenot immigrant, Andre Guillebeau. The house was moved here from its original site in 1983. It’s been renovated completely, with heat and air conditioning. And is available to rent! Nightly rates range from $87 to $135. Click here for more detailed information and a few photos of the original property.

The Guillebeau House is only one overnight accommodation option at Hickory Knob. They also maintain 18 large cabins, and a 76-room resort-style lodge like you see above. This in addition to the RV campground and tent campsites.

I didn’t get to see the lodge rooms this trip [next time!], but heard they are just what one would expect at a far more expensive commercial resort. Here, the price per night is only $50-$82, depending on the time of year. Hard to beat. A good place to bring those campophobic family members

And that entitles visitors to use all of the other Park facilities, including the pool and tennis courts. Ideal for an inexpensive family vacation.

I haven’t even mentioned the Visitors Center yet. I’ve never seen anything like it in any of the other Parks. It includes a full restaurant that serves three meals a day, seven days a week, with a serious award-winning chef. Be sure to try at least one of the soups. Folks drive in from the surrounding community just to have breakfast, lunch, or dinner here. I met a few of them during my “research” visits to the restaurant ….

The Great Room, or gathering room, also is something you have to see to believe. It’s huge, first of all. Large enough to accommodate comfortably several parties of several people at one time.

And even includes a small grand piano! Be sure to take time to look carefully at the paintings along the walls. There are quite a few. Each was done by one of Hickory Knob’s Artists In Residence. Another unusual touch.

Recalling Music Man Harold Hill’s admonition, I probably shouldn’t mention the two pool tables. Well, these may even be “billiard tables,” given the luxurious surroundings. But here they are. I haven’t played in years, of course, but it was a temptation …. Something to do on a rainy day.

There’s much more to see at Hickory Knob State Resort Park. But I’m out of time. Next we’ll take a look at the RV campground, and then, if time permits, enjoy an ElderHike along the Park’s Beaver Run Trail. So stay tuned.

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Musgrove Mill State Historic Site Horseshoe Falls and Battlefield Trail

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The Enoree River’s division of Musgrove Mill State Historic Site into two sections must complicate the lives of Park Staff. It’s also something Park visitors should keep in mind.

Here’s a map from Google that indicates the route from the Visitors Center [The A on the map] to the parking lot in the north section of the Park [The B on the map]. During my first visit I didn’t realize just how far north I had to travel along Route 56 before making the sharp left onto Horseshoe Falls Road, and missed it. The turn is just over two miles up Route 56. And then it’s 1.5 miles back toward the River on Horseshoe Falls Road to the Parking Lot. Lots of interesting things to see along Horseshoe Fall Road, though.

Here’s your destination. The parking lot and informational sign maintained by Park staff. All spic and span when I visited. Only one car other than mine in the lot.

In the last post I mentioned that the British Camp Trail isn’t wheeled-vehicle friendly throughout. The same holds for this Battlefield Trail on the north side of the Park. But look at this! A wide paved, completely smooth area intended for wheelchair exit and entry from cars and vans. The best such facility I’ve seen at any State Park during my travels. My wheelchair-bound mother would have been tickled pink to have seen this.

And that’s not all. The trail, clear up to the Horseshoe Falls overlook is just as smooth. Made from the same material. Talk about accessibility!

This project must have cost a pretty penny. The plaque to the left of the trail notes it was done with support from the “Recreational Trails Program,” the “South Carolina State Trails Program,” and the “Federal Highway Administration.” Imagine how complex that project grant must have been to write and administer! Better them than me. The results are wonderful, though.

Here’s what you’ll see at the end of this paved section of the trail. An excellent view of Horseshoe Falls. And here’s a short video that gives a closer look:

As you can see in the video, there wasn’t much water flowing down the creek when I visited this time.

The Falls must look quite different with a stronger flow. A good excuse to come back to check again!

Don’t miss the informational signs along this trail. They look quite new. Even their images and maps are clear, easy to see. Maybe they were included in the grant proposal described at the trailhead! The text on these signs is chuck-full of information. Easy to read, and beautifully written. Wish I could write that concisely! So, take the time to read each one if you can.

Here’s an example of what you’ll learn. It’s easy to become confused with all of this talk about “Loyalist,” Provincial,” and “Patriot” troops. Well, this sign, and a couple of others, offers an artist’s interpretation of how the various combatants at Musgrove Mill would have looked, and how they were equipped.

The Provincial troops would stand out, with their red coats. But it would be easy to confuse Loyalist and Patriot militia, I’ll bet. Certainly the Patriots had an advantage in that it would be easier for them to blend in when they sought cover in the surrounding woods. Pity the poor Redcoats. Even if they were better equipped.

Speaking of equipment, what sorts of weapons were used in the Battle of Musgrove Mill? Well, it seems there were several long guns. Both rifles and smoothbore muskets.

I’ve handled and used guns all my life. But didn’t realize the difference in firing rate between the long flintlock rifles we read so much about, and the “Brown Bess” muskets supplied to British troops. Accounts differ, but it seems that the Loyalists and Provincials fighting at Musgrove Mill were armed mostly with muskets. While the Patriot militia members had more of the longer, more accurate rifles. I’ll have to look more into this.

Moving along the Battlefield Trail, we encounter steps like those in the photo above. Definitely not convenient for scooters or wheelchairs. But a big help for walking hikers. None of the steps, or even the wooden bridges over boggy spots, were worn or broken. This trail is either quite new or receives regular maintenance.

Here and there along the trail the Park Service has kindly provided benches like the ones you see above. Usually only one bench beside the trail. But here we see three in a semicircle that could accommodate a fairly large group.

Stop and sit a while here if you have the time. Just to the left in the photo above the ground slopes off sharply into a gully. It makes a beautiful vantage point from which to enjoy these woods.

Not far from those benches is another informational sign. It marks the location of a short section of what archaeologists believe to be the roadbed of the original wagon road. I would have missed it had not a more knowledgeable fellow come along and pointed it out. Again, an indication of just how different this battlefield looks today.

This same fellow, by the way, knew all about trees and harvesting wood. I was surprised to learn how young the trees are. Even the big ones. The whole area, he said, has been logged and re-logged, probably several times.

Walking on, we approached the hill on which Patriot troops laid their trap for the Loyalists and Provincials encamped at Musgrove Mill. Here’s another of those excellent informational signs. The image on the right provides a simplified explanation of the order of battle. Patriot troops on either side of the road, awaiting the arrival of the Loyalists pursuing Captain Inman and his sharpshooters as they “fled” up the hill. Oh my.

And here’s the hill they had to climb. This hill may have been cleared at the time of the battle, since it is described in some of the contemporary sources as an “old Indian field.”

Patriot troops would have seen this view, looking down the hill toward the attacking Loyalists and Provincials. There’s some debate over the deployment of Patriot forces here. Did they construct barricades on either side of the wagon road? Or did they just rely on the surrounding woods for cover and concealment? It seems to me that the trap would have been more credible without the barricades. But that’s just an amateur guess.

We don’t even know the exact number of killed and wounded at the Battle of Musgrove Mill. But it’s certain that Captain Shadrach Inman was among the killed.

So there you have it. The Battle of Musgrove Mill. August 19, 1780. An important battle of the Southern Campaign of the Revolutionary War. One worthy of more attention, I believe, from our historians. I hope you will be able to visit the Site soon.

Musgrove Mill SHS Southside Trail and the Enoree River

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You’ll find the entrance to the British Camp Trail just across the parking lot from the Visitors Center. Be sure to pick up a Park map while you’re there.

The image on the left shows how the Enoree River divides the Park into north and south sections. Keep that division in mind as you plan your visit. There’s plenty to see on both sides of the River, so budget time accordingly.

In fact, I found it impossible to cover both sections of the Park during one visit. Had to come back two more times. But your mileage may vary. Not everyone reads every word on every informational sign. Or stops so frequently to enjoy the scenery. Or walks so slowly. Or has as much time to devote to State Park visits!

A word about the trails at Musgrove Mill. They’re clear, and well maintained. But I wouldn’t recommend them for travel in a scooter or some other sort of wheeled vehicle.

Here and there it would be comfortable. Like the stretch in the photo above. But don’t plan a through-trip with a scooter. Let alone a wheel chair. If you require wheels to get around, check with folks in the Visitors Center to learn the location of accessible sections of the trails. There are a few, and they’re worth seeing.

These woods have changed during the past 230 years. Even the lay of the land. Gullies, streams, slopes, cleared areas. Logging, farming, and just plain weather all have left their mark. We can only imagine how things looked to Loyalist troops encamped here in mid-August 1780. Indeed, according to some of the source material, we can’t even be sure of the camp’s exact location.

It’s likely, as the photo from the Park’s informational sign above suggests, that Loyalists relied primarily on tents for shelter. This was a temporary encampment, after all. And troops had to carry whatever they used on their backs. During August in this part of South Carolina there would have been little need for shelter beyond the occasional rainfall. Tents would have made good sense.

Down toward the River, be sure to stop at the Mary Musgrove Monument. Mary Musgrove, like Issaqueena, the American Indian woman of Issaqueena Falls fame, [click link for more information] is a historic figure we remember largely through her appearance in a nineteenth century novel.

In Mary Musgrove’s case, it was Joseph Pendleton Kennedy’s “Horse-shoe Robinson.” She also sometimes is confused with an earlier eighteenth century Mary Musgrove, the daughter of a Creek Indian Mother and Charleston merchant father. A woman noted for facilitating communication between American Indians and Northern European immigrants in Georgia. 

The legend of Musgrove Mill’s Mary, nevertheless, was adequate to inspire erection of this monument early in the last century. Whatever Mary Musgrove’s personal role in the War effort, she and other women contributed significantly to the ultimate Patriot victory. So, as the Park informational sign suggests, “Her legend does, however, stand as a tribute to the countless women who served as spies, messengers and even combatants during America's fight for Independence.”

From the Mary Musgrove Monument, continue across the cleared field toward the river. Somewhere along here is the location of the north-south wagon road’s ford.

We don’t know its exact location. But according to period maps, it has to have been along here somewhere. Indeed, we’re not even sure of the exact path of the wagon road that played such an important role in the Battle of Musgrove Mill. Somewhere not far from here, though, Loyalist troops must have looked out on the morning of August 19th to see Captain Inman and his band of Patriot Volunteers ride across the ford shooting. Only to appear to lose their nerve, turn tail, and flee back they way they came. Their relief was short lived.

From here the trail follows the bank of the Enoree west, toward the site of the Musgrove Mill itself. This is a fascinating walk, through the Enoree’s flood plain with its wildly-shaped trees, vines, and plant life.

Archaeologists are more certain of the location of Edward Musgrove’s mill. If only because it was built and rebuilt in the same location until the early 20th century.

Here’s a 1908 photo of the last mill to occupy the site.

Don’t be fooled by the ruins of the bridge just above the site of the mill. As I was during my first visit! This is what remains of a much later span, washed away long ago by the Enoree at flood, and never replaced.

Speaking of which, here’s a short video of that beautiful river taken while it was in a better mood.

From here the trail loops back up behind the Visitors Center, past an inviting fishing pond, and then back to the parking lot.

Before you leave be sure to inspect the ruins of what is thought to be the foundation of Edward Musgrove’s house. Burned, then rebuilt, according to one of his descendants, by the Loyalists in spite of his earlier generosity at the time of the Battle. Neutrality sometimes isn’t enough, it seems.

Stay tuned, since next we’ll visit the north section of the Park to walk the trail through the battlefield.

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