Return to Keowee-Toxaway State Park, South Carolina.

Table of Contents

• Keowee-Toxaway State Park
• Oconee Station State Historic Site
• Duke Power World of Energy Museum

Keowee-Toxaway has to be one of the nicest RV camping Parks in the South Carolina State Park system. Built on the shore of Lake Keowee around 1970, if memory serves, with generous help from the Duke Power Company that controls the Lake.

You begin to enjoy Keowee-Toxaway well before you arrive. Since travel there from most any part of the State, or from other states, for that matter, takes the visitor over some of South Carolina’s most beautiful roadways.

For example, Route 11, also known as the Cherokee Highway. This road is well worth driving just for the scenery. So once you’re unhooked at your campsite, you may want to go back out the gate and drive ten or twenty miles in one direction on Route 11, and then ten or twenty miles in the opposite direction. It’s worth the gasoline, even at today’s prices! You see a small piece of Route 11 in the photo at the top of the page. It runs right through the Park.

Now, Keowee-Toxaway has only ten RV campsites. In addition to the tent sites just down the hill. Here you see Site # 4, a pull-through at the top of the ridge.

Did I mention that these ten campsites all have been carved into the side of a steep ridge. This mountainous terrain gives each site an inviting character. And they’re all nice and level, once you get there! Here’s an effort to reproduce the campground map that’s handed out to visitors, with site # 4 indicated by the red arrow. If you click for a larger image you’ll see the lines indicating elevation.

Once you’re set up this is the sort of view you’ll have from your picnic table or RV window. Here you’re looking toward Lake Keowee from Site # 4. Leaves on the trees at this time of year block the view of the lake, but it’s there. I’ll try to remember to take another photo from here during the winter, when the leaves have fallen. Quite a sight. A good excuse to come back.

The Park Office was on the other side of Route 11 when the Park was built. Part of the impressive Cherokee Museum complex over there. In the building you see on the left of the photo above.

But now it’s in the this interesting structure across the road. Just down the hill from the RV campsites. As you may have guessed, it’s an old church building, moved from its nearby site and renovated here. I didn’t get a chance to see inside this trip, but recall the Park had plans to create a museum area inside. One that would include many of the Cherokee-related pieces formerly displayed across the road and now in storage.

Soon, the office area, and more important, the trailhead just behind the office, will have a new parking lot. Look at this new construction! I suspect that Duke Power kicked in some support funding here.

And speaking of construction, even more significant, at least for an ElderKayaker like me, is this new canoe-kayak boat ramp! Look at that! Complete with its own parking area. When completed this will be an ideal place to put in and take out. Parking available just steps away from the water.

Well, time to get back outside to better enjoy this beautiful Park. But before signing off, just a word about Keowee-Toxaway’s cabin. They have only one. And it stays rented most of the year. So, be sure to reserve early. Right on the shore of Lake Keowee, with its own private dock. Oh my.

I didn’t get to look inside this trip. But according to a Park staff member, this cabin has three bedrooms, and sleeping facilities for ten people. You can find more detailed information with a click here. It’s not cheap. But if you have any reluctant, or campophobic, family members, this might well persuade them to come out and enjoy the woods and water.

Stay tuned next for a visit to Oconee Station State Historic Site, just a few miles away Click here.

Kayaking on Lake Keowee at Keowee-Toxaway State Park, SC

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To enjoy direct access to Lake Keowee from Keowee-Toxaway State Natural area you must rent the lakeside cabin I mentioned a few posts back. We RVers and tent campers have to travel a few miles to reach one of the Lake’s several public access boat ramps. Be sure to go, though, even if you don’t have a boat with you. The scenery there is worth the trip.

On Wednesday, the 11th, I checked the Advanced Elements Expedition inflatable kayak in the back seat of the car, and headed for Crowe Creek Landing. It’s just over four miles from the Park, about halfway down on the eastern shore of the Lake. It’s a great drive, down Crowe Creek Road. Known less poetically as Route 133. Meandering through typical foothills country. By late morning on Wednesday, weather was perfect for a paddle. Overcast sunshine, with temperatures hovering around 80 degrees. And just enough wind to keep the voyage interesting.

[Click each photo for larger version]


This Lake Keowee landing, like many of the others, was built and is maintained by Duke Power. The folks responsible for the lake. They keep it in good order. Few signs of wear or vandalism. At least, on the days I visited. The newly blacktopped road in from Route 133, with its bright yellow double center line suggests recent attention to the facility. At the top of the hill leading to the ramps, there are plenty of elongated parking spaces for trucks pulling boat trailers. And even a two-door privy! Down at the water’s edge, the landing boasts two solid boat ramps and a nice floating dock. All maintained in tip-top condition. The ramps appear to be substantial enough to accept most any size boat that could be comfortably trailered.


Having scouted out the area the day before, I drove straight down to the concrete turn-around you see in the photo above. Two teenagers sat out on the end of the dock enjoying the sun. As I unloaded and began to inflate the kayak, the young man walked back to ask if I needed any help. I didn’t. But it was a nice gesture. Characteristic of folks living here. He watched with interest and answered questions about the area as I prepared the Expedition for launch. Though he balked at the suggestion of a photo! In twenty minutes or so, all safety and paddling equipment was stored in the boat.

But I’d forgotten the water bottle! A foolish mistake. One that for a longer paddle would have been a trip-breaker. Plenty of snacks, but no water! The bottle was on back the Aliner table, right where I’d left it. Live and learn.

Speaking of water, I mentioned before how clear the water is in Lake Keowee. Here’s a photo taken right near the ramp. From a distance it appears to be blue. Might be drinkable. But I didn’t take a chance.


It seemed wise to bring along the collapsible kayak cart. In case of unanticipated take-out on another part of the lake. So I strapped the Expedition to the cart, and headed for the ramp. The young man who so kindly offered to help with the preparations watched the whole procedure out of the corner of his eye from his perch at the end of the dock. Trying to be inconspicuous. I’m sure he doubted that an elderly kayaker wannabe would be able to launch that big yellow boat without mishap. And he was ready to spring to the rescue!

As usual, the launch was easy; without mishap. No unanticipated dunking. Though I’m always prepared for one, with everything in the kayak tied down and dunk-ready. And me always wearing a good life jacket. Or PFD (personal flotation device) as the boating people now call them. [Don’t even mention “Mae West” these days …] Aided, in part, by the gradual slope of the concrete ramp out into the water.

I’ve been paddling a kayak now for only a year. So it’s still a thrill to glide out quietly from the shore into interesting territory. The rhythmic swish of the paddles and that soft gurgle of the bow slicing through the water adds to the sense of peaceful excitement. If there is such a thing as peaceful excitement! I’ve got nothing against power boats. But can’t imagine one providing this sense of serenity or accomplishment

Oh, and speaking of power boats, there are quite a few of them on Lake Keowee. Certainly outnumbering kayaks and canoes. Some quite large. Others smaller two-person fishing boats with small sputtery outboard motors. A number of them zoomed by my kayak during this paddle. Yet every one slowed upon seeing me to reduce the force of their wake. I’m sure there will be exceptions. But such courtesy in my experience is common on South Carolina’s lakes and rivers. Nice to see.

Development along the shores of Lake Keowee is quite spectacular. Maybe I just selected a special part of the Lake. But the “cottages” pictured below were not at all unusual. Enormous houses! On large, beautifully landscaped lots. Quite a sight from the water.


Many of them were built around or near golf courses. I never saw so much territory devoted to golf courses in one place. I’m not a golfer. But these all looked nice.


Paddling along the eastern shore of the Lake, admiring all of the fancy houses and golf courses, I was delighted to find at least one community with a somewhat different character. It was on a point of land extending out into the lake. Beautifully situated. No golf course in view there!


A wind of about 10 miles per hour blew fairly steadily from the northeast. Enough to provide a cooling breeze. I’d paddled directly into it, knowing the return trip would be easier on the paddler than the trip out. About three-quarters of a mile along the wind intensified. So at a narrow spot, I crossed over to the other side of the Lake for some protection. It helped. And before long I found an inviting sandy beach that looked ideal for a rest stop and a snack. No water to wash it down, now. Just the snack. It’s remarkable how far out one can see through this clear water.


The trip down the lake and back to the boat ramp was even more pleasant than the trip up. In part because the wind was at my back, making paddling much easier. But also because of the stunning view of the mountains in the distance throughout the paddle.


All too soon I was back at the Crowe Creek boat ramp. It would have been nice to continue the paddle past the landing, and explore further down the lake. But by then the wind had picked up a bit more, and there was a hint of rain in the distance. Better not to take the chance.


So, after only a short detour, I paddled back into the ramp to haul out the boat. Again, the gradual slope of the concrete ramp made for a dry and simple landing. The teenagers were gone by then. Replaced by a couple of fishermen. They were standing on the landing, casting up under the floating dock. Of course, I stopped to ask what they were doing. “Fishing for bait!” Small brim, they said, hide under the dock. They’re easy to catch, they said, and make ideal bait for larger fish. Learn something every day! These fishermen too turned out to be lifetime residents of the area. In response to my questions they provided interesting background on local developments.

The whole paddle, according to the GPS, lasted only an hour and 45 minutes, for 3.43 miles. It seemed longer. Not from tiredness. But from the diversity of interesting scenery visible from the kayak. I’m eager to return to Crowe Creek Landing. And to try some of the other public boat landings on Lake Keowee.


Speaking of inflatable kayaks, those of you who find such craft interesting should visit the Inflatable Kayaking in B.C. blog. As the name suggests, it’s hosted from British Columbia. Beautiful photos and all sorts of advice on kayaking successfully with inflatable boats. Steven’s owned a number of different inflatable models from different manufacturers, and knows what he’s talking about. Enjoy.

http://paddlesheep.blogspot.com/

Cherokee Interpretive Center: Keowee-Toxaway State Park, SC

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After a quiet lunch in the Aliner I drove late Tuesday afternoon to the other side of the Park. Across Highway Eleven. To visit the Cherokee Interpretive Center, and to walk the associated trail. It’s an experience you shouldn’t miss. This side of the Park too has been meticulously maintained. Again, I didn’t find a single scrap of paper or trash. Though some of the facilities and displays are long overdue for replacement. Undoubtedly the victims of budget cuts. But, as you can see in the photo of the split rail fence and greenery below, the overall effect is pleasing.

[Click each photo for larger view]


Those split rail fences are beautiful, but expensive to build and to replace. And the trail through the interpretive center is lined with them.


Note too the camellia bush to the left of the railroad ties. It’s one of several mature specimens in this section of the Park. The blossoms are beautiful.


The Interpretive Museum building is open only by appointment now. So I didn’t get to look inside. It used to house the Park’s main offices, as well as displays of Cherokee artifacts. Still, there’s plenty to see along the trail.




Walk down the path pictured above, and turn to the right at the sign. Four kiosks positioned here and there along the trail offer text, illustrations, and photos describing some aspect of Cherokee life. The trail leads straight through each of the kiosks, right past the large display windows. So visitors are sure not to miss a thing. The displays originally included artifacts as well. But, according to a sign pasted to a window, many of them have been removed for safekeeping.




The first kiosk is devoted to Cherokee hunting, styles of dress, shelters, and usage of indigenous plants. The removed artifacts have been replaced with photographs. The combination of photographs, drawings, and text conveys a lot of information about Cherokee life in a most pleasant natural setting.


The second kiosk offers a look at relations between the Cherokee and Europeans as they arrived in the region: trade, diplomatic relations, treaties, and finally warfare. All open to interpretation, of course. But well done. With the information presented effectively for visitors of all ages. No easy feat!



While walking back up the trail to the third kiosk, pictured above, be sure to take enough time to appreciate the variety of surrounding shrubs and trees. They alone are worth the effort. Kiosk number three describes the first Cherokee War. With a focus on Fort Prince George.


The Fort was situated on what then was the Keowee River, around six miles from the Park. According to the supporting material, anthropologists made a frantic effort to excavate as much of the Fort’s site as possible before it was covered by the water that turned the Keowee River into Lake Keowee. The model pictured above gives visitors a good idea of just how the Fort was constructed.


The fourth and final kiosk in the series provides information about Cherokee participation in the American Revolution, and the subsequent fate of the Tribe, up to the 1970s. Including the “Indian removal” campaigns of 1838 and 1839, and the “Trail of Tears.” This kiosk too is well done, leaving visitors with something to think about as they climb the path to the trail exit.


There are several attractive picnic shelters on this side of the park, just down the hill from the museum building. All an easy walk from the parking area.


They are clean and well maintained. One even boasts an impressive stone fireplace. These shelters can be reserved in advance, or occupied on an as-available basis. What a great place for a family picnic before or after walking the Cherokee Interpretive Trail!


It’s possible that the Park Service has plans to integrate much of this interesting exhibit into the Jocassee Gorges Project display under construction in the main park office on the other side of Highway Eleven. I hope, though, they find the additional funds necessary to preserve this remarkable exhibit. It certainly seems worth maintaining.

Those of you interested in RV travel and interesting photographs should have a look at the Old Fat Man Adventures blog. You can find it at:

http://www.ofmadventures.blogspot.com/

Nearly every day, Barney, the old fat man, publishes a post about his life full-timing in an RV in Texas. It's great entertainment, and you're sure to learn something along the way! I certainly have.

Click here for the next post in this series.

The Lake Trail: Keowee-Toscaway State Park, SC

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This morning, not long after daylight, I decided to walk the Lake Trail at Keowee-Toxaway State Park. “Walk” may be a better term here than “hike.” Since this trail too is so “accessible,” as the Park folks politely put it.

This is the newest of the Park’s hiking trails. I couldn’t find it on the Park hand-outs. In fact, it doesn’t yet even have a sign or map at the trailhead. As you can see in the photo below.

[click each photo for a larger view]


According to folks at the Park, it was a logging trail many years ago. So early loggers already had done much of the back-breaking work involved in building a relatively flat path through such rugged woods. Here and there the trail goes over hard-packed earthen bridges spanning impossible-to-avoid gullies. Imagine the sweat involved in hauling and packing down all of that dirt and stone! Of course, since the trail hadn’t been used in years, Park personnel still had a lot of work to do to get it into the shape you see below.



To enter the trail, walk down the ridge from the RV campsites, past the bath house, coming out just below the entrance to the tent site loop. The tent site area is just up the road to the right in the first photo. The trail meanders from there down the ridge to the shore of the lake. Coming out near the Park’s three-bedroom cabin I mentioned a day or so ago. I didn’t carry an altimeter during my walk. But according to Google Earth, the drop from the top of the ridge where the RV sites are to the lake shore is about 300 feet. Giving the trail plenty of character in such a short distance.


Speaking of character, this Lake Trail has very steep banks on one side for most of its length. As you can see in the photo above. Not a place you’d want to meander off the path for a closer look at an interesting tree or bush. Better to bring the field glasses! Or a rope and tackle to get back up! It doesn’t show up in the photo, but a small brook runs through the gully at the bottom. From time to time, its water rushing over rocks provides a welcome sound. Just faintly, though. The other side of the trail, of course, is as steep back up the ridge. All of this rugged terrain makes the trail more interesting. At least for me. It gives a greater sense of really being in the woods.


The photo above illustrates recent maintenance efforts. Modern chainsaws certainly beat the old-style cross-cuts we used until a few decades ago in the woods OverHome. But even chainsaws require more effort to operate than one might think. Try it sometime, on a log that size. Especially in a confined area like this, where footing’s limited, and cutting angles are bound to be difficult. Many of the trees here are huge!


Even after completion, these trails require lots of work to maintain their beauty. Even their accessibility! From beginning to end today, I didn’t encounter a single obstacle – rock, eroded soil, or downed tree trunk – blocking the path. In fact the only obstacles were planned. “Grade dips,” those bumps of hard-packed earth, built here and there into the trail to discourage erosion from down-rushing rain water. And all of those were smooth enough to walk over comfortably. I meant to take a photo of one, but forgot.


About two-thirds of the way down, crystal-blue Keowee Lake begins to flash through the trees from the west. A few more yards and it looks like the photo above! Incredible. Watch your step, though. The bank toward the lake here is steep! The water in this lake is incredibly clear. As is that in Lake Jocassee, to the north of Keowee. When boating, it’s possible to see clear to the bottom quite a ways from shore. More on kayaking Lake Keowee in another post.


This Lake Trail ends just below the Park’s single rental cabin. Cars were parked in front of the cabin, and I could see two people paddling a canoe just off the cabin’s private dock. So I resisted the urge to go closer for a photo. Instead, I walked the other way, toward the shore of the lake, on what turned out to be the remains of an old road-bed. At first I thought it was an abandoned boat ramp. Since the crumbled pavement led right into the lake. Later, the Park folks told me it’s the remains of an old road that led across to the other side of what now is the lake. Long ago flooded, with the rest of the valley, when the lake filled in. The roadbed is still clearly visible, they said, much of the way across.


This is the view to the north when standing on the edge of the old road bed. Notice those mountains in the background, and the natural sandy beaches along the shore. An incredible view! The photo doesn’t do it justice.


With more of the Park to see today, I decided to walk up the paved two-lane road that leads from the cabin to the Park entrance, rather than back up the Lake Trail. I’ll save that for another time. But even this paved road presents beautiful views around every turn. So it too is worth the walk.


The whole walk took me not much over an hour. All very slow and careful walking. With frequent stops to admire the scenery, and to take photographs. Not to rest, you understand. But to enjoy the scenery! This afternoon I hope to venture across Highway Eleven, to the other side of the Park. For a closer look at the Cherokee Interpretive Trail.

By the way, if you find any of this interesting, let me recommend a website that has it all, when it comes to enjoying the outdoors through your computer. You will find Tamia Nelson's "Outside Up North" at:

http://www.tamiasoutside.com/

Take time to click through all of the menu items at the top of the page: "Practical Cycling," "Outside Afoot," "In the Same Boat," and even "Help Turtles Cross Roads." Then look through the headings in the left-hand margin. Tamia is an experienced cyclist, canoeist/kayaker, and hiker. Even cook! Here's where you'll find all sorts of interesting advice on how to enjoy the out-of-doors. The writing and photography will keep you coming back day after day. Make it easier on yourself by subscribing to Tamia's blog. Just click the little RSS button on the left, near the top, for instructions.

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The Natural Bridge Trail: Keowee-Toxaway State Park, SC

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Keowee-Toxaway State Natural Area boasts several hiking trails. As do most of the South Carolina state parks I’ve visited. Most facilities have both “accessible” trails and “more challenging” trails. “Accessible” here meaning that even less mobile Hiker Wannabes, like me, can enjoy them without too much strain. Just remember to wear stout shoes, and to carry a walking stick! Preferably one that also can help to steady your camera for those low sunlight pictures.

There’s usually a map of the trail around somewhere. Like the one in the photo below. But it’s best for less experienced first-time hikers to ask for more detailed information before starting out. I’ve found South Carolina’s Park Rangers knowledgeable and willing informants. Without exception. Sometimes maybe a little too cautious in their advice. But better that than the other way around!

[Click each photo for larger view]



The Natural Bridge Trail you see outlined in blue in the photo above begins just beyond the parking lot behind the Park office building. Most of the trail slopes gradually, and is clearly marked. It would be hard to lose your way. Just follow the markers! The photo below is typical of the trail’s early section. Note that it parallels Highway 11 for a ways. Until it turns left to begin the loop.




Now, I’m no trail design expert. But there must be a trade-off between improving trail surfaces for ease of access, and maintaining the sense of a “natural” environment that we’re all hoping to find when we venture out. This “accessible” Natural Bridge Trail manages to accomplish both. It has a fairly smooth surface for most of the way. And yet hikers can enjoy that soothing sense of being in the woods.


The trail soon turns sharply left [west] and begins its descent to a stream below. Here the trail becomes a little more challenging. Though, as you can see in the photos below, the designers have included steps here and there to make the descent and climb easier.




Like the rest of the trail, the sections with steps are well maintained. Making travel much easier for those of us who go along carefully and slowly. And free of trash. I saw only one piece of trash on the trail. A six-inch section of red tree tape used to mark trees for removal. It was so unusual I was tempted to take a picture! And this is a well-traveled trail.
Below is a photo of the most difficult part of the Natural Bridge Trail I encountered. It was steeper, and the roots you can see required careful attention.


Truth be told, though, even this section presented no real difficulty. Either up or down. I only had to make good use of my walking stick, and be careful where I placed my feet. This, with a left knee that’s about to be operated on! So, most anyone able to walk along on a flat surface should be able to navigate this trail. It’s certainly worth the effort.


About halfway to the natural bridge for which the trail has been named, I began to hear water running along in a small stream. What a treat! The sound became louder as I walked along. Until I could see the small waterfall pictured above. I went off the trail for a short distance to grab that photo, and just had to stand there for a while, enjoying the sight and sound.
Now, confession time. I failed to follow my own advice. I didn’t consult one of the Rangers before hiking the trail for the first time. Nor did I take a map! So, after an hour or so of very slow, careful walking, I turned around and hiked back the way I’d come. I missed the natural bridge. And I missed the rest of the loop you can see on the map at the top of this post. I was a little tired, and didn’t want to over-tax the knee. So, back up I went.


One of the Rangers later told me I was within 100 yards of the natural bridge and the bottom of the loop when I decided to turn around. Live and learn! Though the results of that decision weren’t all bad. I got to see the trail from the opposite direction. As you can see in the photo above. Quite a different sight. I got to see a very large brown bird – probably an owl – fly noiselessly away from the trail at my approach. I saw a bed of trout lilies, pictured below, that I’d missed on the way down. And, I have an even better excuse for hiking this trail again as soon as I can return to this part of the country! So the decision to turn back was hardly a loss.



All too soon I was back at the beginning of the trail at the rear of the Park Office. What a way to start the day! Remember, none of these photos do justice to the environment here. It is much more beautiful. I’ll certainly be back as soon as I can arrange the trip. And hope you can arrange a visit too.

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